Thawj zaug hais, muab yam tsawg kawg ib co ntaub ntawv hais txog cov khaub ncaws hnav nyob rau hauv Ancient Russia, historians koom nrog lub era ntawm Kievan Rus. Nws yog ib nqi sau cia hais tias lub outfits ntawm lub sij hawm ntawd yog yus muaj los ntawm ib co nta uas nws muaj peev xwm mus txiav txim lub neej ntawm cov neeg ntawm lub sij hawm ntawd, lawv tus cwj pwm rau lub ntiaj teb no nyob ib ncig ntawm lawv thiab lawv views. Cov khaub ncaws ntawm lub sijhawm ntawd muaj lawv tus kheej. Txawm hais tias hauv qee cov ntsiab lus muaj cov ntsiab lus uas twb tau siv rau hauv cov khaub ncaws ntawm lwm haiv neeg.
yam ntxwv dab tsi txawv cov khaub ncaws ntawm Ancient Russia
Tam sim no nyob rau hauv cov hnub ntawd, tib neeg pom cov khaub ncaws yog qhov tseem ceeb uas tiv thaiv lawv los ntawm kev hloov pauv kub, thiab ua ib hom khoom plig tiv thaiv nws tus tswv ntawm kev ua phem ntawm dab phem. Txhawm rau txhim kho kev tiv thaiv, cov khaub ncaws tau ntxiv nrog cov khoom tshwj xeeb, paj ntaub lossis txhua yam ntawm amulets thiab decorations.
Cov qauv ntawm cov khaub ncaws ntawm cov neeg zoo tib yam thiab cov neeg muaj koob muaj npe zoo sib xws. Qhov sib txawv tseem ceeb yog nyob rau hauv cov ntaub ntawv uas tau siv rau kev txiav. Nyob rau hauv lub wardrobe ntawm ib tug neeg ua teb, ib tug tsuas yog nrhiav tau cov khoom linen, thiab cov chav kawm ntawv sab sauv kuj khav ntawm kim fabrics coj los ntawm lwm lub teb chaws.lub teb chaws.
Cov khaub ncaws tseem ceeb rau menyuam yaus yog cov tsho ntev, xoob-fitting. Ob tug tub thiab ntxhais mus rau lawv. Lawv tsis tau tshwj xeeb sewn rau menyuam yaus, lawv tau hloov los ntawm cov niam txiv uas twb tau hnav khaub ncaws. Qhov no tsis muaj xwm txheej. Ib qho kev ntseeg thaum ub hais tias cov khaub ncaws sewn li no rau tus menyuam muaj zog tiv thaiv thiab yog ib qho khoom plig rau nws.
Lwm txoj kev ntseeg tau lees tias nws muaj peev xwm nqus tau tib neeg lub siab thiab lub zog. Yog tias koj hloov mus rau lwm tus neeg hnav, ces nws yuav hloov tag nrho cov txiaj ntsig zoo rau tus tswv tshiab. Twb yog vim li no, txiv thiaj muab khaub ncaws hloov rau cov tub, thiab niam cov khaub ncaws rau cov ntxhais.
Cov xim hauv cov khaub ncaws tsoos
Cov tsos ntawm cov neeg nyob hauv Ancient Russia tau rov qab los rau lub sijhawm ntev raws li cov ntaub ntawv keeb kwm yav dhau los, cov duab qub hauv cov tuam tsev thaum ub, archaeological excavations, thaum lub sij hawm qhov tawg ntawm fabrics tau pom.
Cov neeg Lavxias muaj kev ntshaw tshwj xeeb rau liab. Hauv kev nkag siab ntawm lub sijhawm ntawd, nws yog qhov ntxoov ntxoo uas, hauv nws lub suab, ze tshaj plaws rau lub tswv yim ntawm "zoo nkauj", "zoo nkauj". Tsis xav tsis thoob nws yog nyob rau hauv cov hnub uas ruaj khov kab lus "liab khub", "liab ntxhais", "liab hnub" tshwm sim. Cov xim no yog qhov tseem ceeb hauv kev xaiv cov ntaub rau khaub ncaws thiab phuam qhwv caj dab.
Txhua yam ntawm cov khaub ncaws nyob rau hauv Ancient Russia hu ua ib lo lus "chaw nres nkoj", uas tsim lub hauv paus rau lub npe ntawm cov txiv neej lub ris (trousers). Tom qab ntawd, txoj haujlwm nws tus kheej tau tshwm sim - tus kws tu plaub.
Yog hais tias tus txiv neej cov ris tsho Lavxias tsis txawv ntawm qhov tshwj xeeb, ces hauv cov poj niam hnav ris tshoCov kev sib txawv tseem ceeb tau pom, los ntawm qhov uas nws muaj peev xwm txiav txim siab mus rau sab qaum teb lossis sab qab teb. Yog hais tias nyob rau hauv sov cheeb tsam, cov ntxhais thiab cov poj niam hnav tsho, pony skirts thiab jocks, ces nyob rau hauv sab qaum teb cheeb tsam, sundresses thiab kokoshniks tau ntxiv rau lub tsho. Cov tom kawg yog cov khoom zoo nkauj tshaj plaws ntawm cov khaub ncaws.
Cov poj niam lub kaus mom ntawm txhua cheeb tsam tau nyuaj ntau dua li cov txiv neej hauv lawv cov qauv tsim thiab nqa lub nra hnyav. Peb txhua tus tsawg kawg ib zaug pom Lavxias teb sab kev zoo nkauj hauv kokoshnik. Cia peb nyob ntawm no headdress.
Thawj cov ntaub ntawv hais txog kokoshnik
Thawj zaug lo lus "kokoshnik" tau hais hauv cov ntaub ntawv keeb kwm ntawm xyoo pua 16th. Nws keeb kwm muaj keeb kwm Slavic ancient. Nyob rau hauv lub literal translation, "kokoshnik" yog "hen-hen" los yog "rooster". Nws yog festively embroidered headdress rau cov poj niam, uas yog ib tug obligatory caij ntawm lub teb chaws tiab.
Qhov txawv ntawm lub taub hau no yog lub zuag. Cov cheeb tsam sib txawv muaj lawv tus kheej daim ntawv. Nyob rau hauv ib co, nws outwardly zoo li tus xub taub hau, lwm lub xeev yog nplua nuj nyob rau hauv crescent-zoo li kokoshniks, thiab nyob rau hauv tseem lwm tus, kokoshniks hu ua "magpies", "heels" thiab "kub-domed" yuav pom.
Cov duab ntawm cov khoom yog nyob ntawm cov tsoos hairstyle nyob rau hauv txhua cheeb tsam. Qee qhov nws yog kev cai los sau cov plaub hau hauv ib pob nruj, uas tau qhwv lub taub hau, lossis hauv cov braids, uas tau muab tso rau tom qab ntawm lub taub hau lossis ntawm cov tuam tsev.
Yuav ua li cas lub kokoshnik tshwm raws li headdress nyob rau hauvCov poj niam Lavxias teb sab costume?
Versions ntawm keeb kwm ntawm kokoshnik
Lub ntsiab ntawm cov tsos ntawm kokoshnik headdress yog Byzantine keeb kwm. Txawm nyob rau hauv ancient sij hawm, hairstyles ntawm noble Greek poj niam tau dai kom zoo nkauj nrog diadems, uas tau fastened nrog ribbons nyob rau hauv lawv cov plaub hau. Tab sis tsuas yog cov ntxhais tsis tau sib yuav tuaj yeem tsim kom zoo nkauj. Cov poj niam ua txij ua nkawm tau tsis muaj lub sijhawm no los ntawm kev pov daim ntaub thaiv lawv cov plaub hau.
Muaj kev xav tias kev paub txog Byzantine kev lig kev cai tau tshwm sim thaum lub sijhawm kev lag luam Lavxias-Byzantine. Cov ntxhais huabtais zoo siab tau qhia cov poj niam Greek siab lub taub hau rau hauv lawv lub wardrobe.
Qhov thib ob, tom qab version ntawm lub hauv paus chiv keeb, yog txuam nrog kev ntxeem tau ntawm Mongol-Tatar quab. Cov tub rog muaj lub taub hau zoo li tus poj niam kokoshnik, uas tej zaum qiv los ntawm Ancient Russia, tab sis tsuas yog ua poj niam lub caij ntawm lub teb chaws costume.
Qhov twg hauv Russia tuaj yeem pom cov kokoshnik?
Ib me ntsis tom qab, kokoshnik tuaj yeem pom tsis yog hauv cov neeg ua liaj ua teb xwb, tab sis kuj yog cov nom tswv thiab cov thawj coj hauv tsev hais plaub. Empress Catherine ll, piv txwv li, nyiam ua yeeb yam thaum kos duab portraits hauv no headdress. Yog li ntawd, nws tau sim ua kom pom nws lub siab nyiam rau tib neeg. Thiab cov courtiers uas tuaj masquerades nyob rau hauv xws headdresses tau txais tshwj xeeb txaus siab thiab txhawb nqa los ntawm tus Empress.
Nikolay l txij thaum 1834 nrogNyob rau hauv lub vaj, ib tug tshwj xeeb poj niam costume nrog ib tug kokoshnik tau qhia. Nws yog raws li ib tug hnav ris tsho thiab ib tug coj headdress. Kokoshnik ntawm cov xim tshwj xeeb, ua tiav thiab cov duab tau muab rau cov poj niam sib yuav ntawm ntau lub tsev hais plaub.
Empress Maria Feodorovna, tus poj niam ntawm Alexander lll, muaj ntawm nws cov hniav nyiaj hniav kub pob zeb diamond tiara, cov tsos ntawm uas zoo li kokoshnik. Nws tus viv ncaus Alexandra tsis tuaj yeem tiv taus qhov zoo nkauj thiab txiav txim rau nws tus kheej. Txij thaum ntawd los, kokoshniks ua los ntawm cov pob zeb zoo nkauj tau los ua kev zam.
Yuav ua li cas lawv hnav lub taub hau zoo li kokoshnik?
Nyob rau hauv Russia, lub ancient Slavic kev cai txiav txim, raws li cov headdresses ntawm cov ntxhais thiab cov poj niam sib yuav muaj qhov sib txawv. Lawv hnav tsis tau tsuas yog txawv kaus mom, tab sis kuj hairstyles. Yog hais tias cov ntxhais hauv kokoshnik tau tso cai taug kev nrog cov plaub hau xoob lossis ib txoj hlua khi, ces cov poj niam sib yuav yuav tsum tau khi ob lub braids thiab npog tag nrho lawv lub taub hau. Hauv qhov no, headgear muaj qhov sib txawv tseem ceeb. Lub taub hau ntawm tus poj niam sib yuav tau npog tag nrho cov teeb meem, uas yog lub cim kev txij nkawm. Kokoshnik nrog daim ntaub thaiv, uas tau dai kom zoo nkauj nrog cov hlaws dai thiab paj ntaub, tau nrov heev.
Ib tug ntxhais hauv kokoshnik nrog cov plaub hau ntev ntws yog tus qauv ntawm kev zoo nkauj. Tab sis kom nthuav tawm uncovered curls rau ib tug poj niam sib yuav rau txhua tus pom yog tsis ncaj ncees nyob rau hauv cov hnub. Nws raug suav hais tias yog ib qho kev txhaum loj yog tias leej twg tsis yog tus txiv pom cov plaub hau ntawm cov khoom. Muaj kev ntseeg hais tias cov plaub hau ntawm ib tug poj niam sib yuav muaj kev tsis zoo rau cov txiv neej, attractinglub zog phem.
Tus nqi ntawm kokoshnik
Kokoshniki yog headdresses uas tau txais txiaj ntsig tshwj xeeb thaum kawg ntawm lub xyoo pua 18th. Hauv lawv cov chaw tsim khoom, galloon tau siv, thiab qee zaus, brocade, embroidered nrog kub thiab nyiaj threads, sewn nyob rau hauv faceted rhinestones thiab xim ntawv ci. Lub hauv paus ntawm lub taub hau yog txhob lo lo ntxhuav los yog velvet.
Txhua tus poj niam tuaj yeem ua cov khoom lag luam feem ntau ntawm nws tus kheej, kho kom zoo nkauj tsis yog nws tus kheej nkaus xwb, tab sis kuj yog lub taub hau ntawm nws cov ntxhais thiab cov ntxhais xeeb ntxwv, thaum cov neeg ua haujlwm paub txog nrog kev txawj ntse hauv kev xaws xaws thiab paj ntaub tau koom nrog kev tsim cov kokoshniks..
Lub chaw tseem ceeb ntawm lawv cov khoom tsim nyob rau hnub ntawd yog Upper Mamon thiab Pavlovsk. Cov khoom zoo li no raug nqi ntau heev. Yog li ntawd, lawv tau khaws cia ua tsev neeg qub txeeg qub teg thiab dhau los ntawm niam mus rau tus ntxhais, cov viv ncaus mus rau cov yau, thiab txawm tias cov xeeb ntxwv thiab cov xeeb ntxwv.
Cov poj niam vam meej yeej ib txwm muaj kokoshnik ntawm lawv daim ntawv teev npe khoom plig. Nws yog kev cai coj los hnav rau hnub tshoob thiab hnub so loj tom ntej kom txog rau thaum tus menyuam yug los. Tom qab ntawd, lub kokoshnik raug tshem tawm thiab hloov los ntawm cov phuam qhwv caj dab thiab lwm yam headdresses.
Cov ntsiab lus tseem ceeb ntawm kokoshnik
Kho kom zoo nkauj ntawm kokoshnik hauv daim ntawv ntawm ornament yog qhov tseem ceeb heev. Nyob rau hauv nruab nrab ntawm lub headdress feem ntau yog dai kom zoo nkauj nrog ib tug stylized "qav", uas yog lub cim fertility, nyob rau ntawm ob sab muaj cov duab ntawm swans, uas los ntawm ancient sij hawm yog lub cim ntawm fidelity ntawm cov txij nkawm. Nyob rau sab nraum qab tau muab tso rau tsob ntoo ntawm lub neej nyob rau hauv daim ntawvhav txwv yeem. Cov ceg ntawm cov nroj tsuag cim rau tiam tom ntej. Noog, txiv hmab txiv ntoo thiab lwm yam cim tseem ceeb tau muab tso rau ntawm txhua ceg.
Fashion ua ntej tshaj kev lig kev cai
Cov kokoshniks paub tseeb yog cov kaus mom zoo li lub kaus mom. Lub ornament tau tam sim no, tab sis nws tau hloov tag nrho. Tam sim no nws tau sawv cev los ntawm tsuas yog ob lub ntsiab lus - ib pawg ntawm grapes thiab ib tug scarlet sawv. Lub headdress khaws nws cov tswv yim keeb kwm ntev dua li tag nrho lwm cov ntsiab lus, thaum khaws cov qauv tshiab hauv nws cov duab. Cov poj niam tsoos Lavxias teb sab costume, tom qab ib pliag, yog hloov los ntawm ib tug fashionable. Ua ke nrog nws, lub kokoshnik tau hloov los ntawm luam tawm thiab paj rwb phuam qhwv caj dab, poj niam lub kaus mom.
Txawm hais tias, raws li ntau tus, kokoshnik yog ib lub taub hau Lavxias, nws kuj tuaj yeem pom ntawm lwm haiv neeg. Piv txwv li, thaum ub Scythians thiab Iberians (cov poj koob yawm txwv ntawm cov neeg Mev). Lawv kuj hnav headdresses heev reminiscent ntawm kokoshniks.
Hnub no, lub ntsiab lus no tseem nyob hauv lub cim xeeb ntawm cov neeg laus, thiab rau ib lub sijhawm nws tau hloov mus rau keeb kwm ntawm Lavxias teb sab pej xeem cov poj niam cov khaub ncaws, dhau los ua cov cuab yeej cuab tam nplua nuj ntawm Ancient Russia.
